DIY or DYE - BadLab project

BAD LAB is a collective laboratory of ideas and practices around plants. It consists in installations, library, screenings, workshops, cooking, sound and movement. Starting from Lisa Biedligmeier's healing explorations, Maya Minder's fermentation practices and the expression "mauvaises herbes" in French, as developed by Anne-Laure Franchette in her research and installations, we wondered what could be a bad plant and how we could collectively explore this notion. We realised that watching a small part of the planetary garden could give us a better insight into the structures of a larger system. What is a "Bad Lab" compared to a scientific laboratory? It focuses on explorations rather than on delivering results. We are as interested in chemical reactions than in the complex relationships between society and our environment. Think globally, act locally.

Link to BAD LAB: https://www.instagram.com/badlabproject/

=Info= DIY or DIE Is an transdisciplinary workshop led by Corinna Mattner and Maya Minder on the topic of coloring fabrics with wild herbs and bacteria, which takes place in the context of the exhibition UNFINISHED BUSINESS at Sattelkammer, Bern.

We will approach the art of dyeing by means of DIYbio methods and old knowledge about plantdye and natural coloring. We use plants, bacteria and ferments directly to dye fabrics and create uncontrolled design and patterns. In the framework of the theme of the exhibition „unfinished business“ the aspect of empowerment by DIY is celebrated threw the moment of liberation - Just do it! Embroidery hoops stand as a symbol of the time we save, which we take as free time by growing beyond the collective stick tradition of manual work, no longer embroidering the fabric with rules and slogans, but use nature itself, its signs leaves to create traces of stories.

This workshop is a lot about the playful approach of learning and unlearning threw female and sensory and experimental perception. We try not to follow strict protocols and fix applied methods, but rather dig into the diversity that nature offers of untoxic plants and microbes, rewriting strings of (His)stories in search for new practice in old hidden eastern and western history, when human capability of understanding and perceiving the world threw science were closer linked together.

=Lab Equipment:= List of Lab Equipment needed made by fabricademy (https://textile-academy.org/) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1TvBthCZPWZrIqn_Ew0iTUXM_QmK9HLjZkhyg8D-4SXM/edit#gid=1711830347



=Find more sources and information on:=

Fabricademy: https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week04/#lecture-notes

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/bacterialdye/

Vienna Textile Lab: https://www.viennatextilelab.at/about-us/

Textilelab Amsterdam https://waag.org/en/project/textilelab-amsterdam

Living Colour: https://livingcolour.eu/experiments/

Pili.bio - Color made in microbes designed by humans https://www.pili.bio/



=History from Natural to Synthetic Dyes= There are two types of dyes. Natural, those come from animal or plant sources and synthetic, those that are manmade. If you were trying to dye clothing before synthetic dyes were discovered in 1856, you would have had to use natural dyes. Some of the most known are the animal dyes tyrian purple and cochineal and the plant dyes madder and indigo or saffflower in Europe. Tyrian purple was one of the moste desired natural dyes made of snails. As legend has it, a sheep dog belonging to Herules was walking along the beach in Tyre. He bi into a small mollusk which turned his mouth the color of coagulated blood. This became known as royal or tyrian purple. It brought great prosperity to Tyre around 1500 BC and for centuries it was the most expensive animal dye money could buy, worn by Cesaer, Cleopatra and entire european king houses. Corchineal is a crimson dye made from cactus insects. It was introduced to Europe from Mexico by the Spanish sea voyagers. It was used as cloth dye, artists’ pigment, and much later as a food dye. This is also required a huge seasonal harvest seeing as 17’000 dried insects produced a single ounce of dye. Plant dyes are generally cheaper and in greater supply. The most common being madder red and indigo blue. Madder came from the roots of 35 species of plants found in Europe and Asia. It has been found in the cloth of mummies and was the first dye to be used as camouflage. =Animal Fibers= Animal Fibers are natural fibers that consist largely of particular proteins. Instances are silk, hair and fur (including wool) and feathers. Wool Silk Hair Feather

=Plant-derived vegetable fibres= The principal chemical component of vegetable fibers is cellulose, with varying amounts of lignin and hemicelluloses also usually present; thus the fibers are also referred to as cellulosic or lignocellulosic. Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Raffia Jute



=On Natural Dye and sources:=

Why not research how to dye easter eggs https://www.livona.de/natuerlich-ostereier-faerben-mit-pflanzen-und-gewuerzen/

DIY Natural https://www.diynatural.com/natural-fabric-dyes/

Wikihow https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Natural-Dyes

All Natural Dyeing http://www.allnaturaldyeing.com/natural-dye-colors/

=Natural Products that give dye:= Hibiskus

Curcuma

Sasafras

Safflower oder Färberdistel

Onionskin

japanischer Knöterich

blaue Kartoffeln

Kornblume

Malve

=Wildherbs that create natural patterns:=

Herbstzeitlose

Schafgarbe

Hexenröhrlinge

Spitzwegrich

Frauenmantel

=Chemicals used in Synth Dye:= Synthetic color agents are largely produced threw petrol industry and its chemicals. It is very toxic and polluting our natural water sources and ecosystems. Beyond the fashion industry synthetic dye and color industry is a shadow industry that reveals the real impact and scales in ecological pollution.

Alkylphenols Azo dyes Brominated and chlorinated flame retardants Cadmium, lead, mercury and chromium Chlorinated solvents Chlorobenzenes Chlorophenols Organotin compounds Pefrluorinated chemicals Phthalates Short-chain chlorinated paraffins

=Bacterial Dye=

Purple: Janthinobacterium lividum https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janthinobacterium_lividum

RED: Arthrobacter agilis https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arthrobacter_agilis

Yellow:

Micrococcus Luteus https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micrococcus_luteus

Streptomyces Colicolor https://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/Streptomyces_coelicolor

=More Related Links and other projects:=

Persimmon aka Kakishibu: https://kimbrowndesign.blogspot.com/2016/10/kakishibu-persimmon-dye-of-japan.html

Open Calls on Textile making: http://tribe-against-machine.org/open_call2018/

Fastweb Digital Academy: https://www.fastwebdigital.academy

Urban Bee Lab - Pigmented Bacteria: https://urbanbeelab.okno.be/doku.php?id=dyeing_with_bacteria

Article - Bacterial dyes in Fashion: https://www.asm.org/Articles/2017/November/bacterial-dyes-in-fashion

Living Color - iBook: https://issuu.com/kukkadesign/docs/living_colour-ibook

Creative in Residence at Ginkgo Bioworks: https://www.ginkgobioworks.com/2018/04/11/creative-in-residence/

Faber Futures: https://faberfutures.com/about/#section-Mission

Middleage Wiki (Germ.) https://mittelalter.fandom.com/de/wiki/F%C3%A4rben_von_Stoffen

=Links to ethnobotanical References:= (feel free to add)

•	Paracelsus Paracelsus (1493 - 1541), Theophrastus Bombast von Hohenheim, fälschlich auch Philippus Theophrastus Aureolus Bombastus von Hohenheim genannt, deutscher Arzt und Reformator der Medizin Quelle: Paracelsus, Mensch und Schöpfung Alle Dinge sind Gift, und nichts ist ohne Gift. Allein die Dosis macht, daß ein Ding kein Gift ist.

Heilkräuter Lexikon Online (German) https://www.heilkraeuter.de/lexikon/

Date & Location
'''Saturday 24. March 2019'''

,Sattelkammer is an artspace based in Bern, curated by Mirijam Gallo

Schedule
Workshop is happening from 11-16 Uhr: 1. Introduction of the workshop participants

2. Bleching and dressing up, prepare color bath (we skiped the bacteria, this will happen next time, need more scientists and designers!)

3. Walk: foraging for wild herbs

4. Pattern creation and steam baths, this is were the magic happens